NOTE: With Covid Products are selling out fast so we are doing our best the try keep up to date however they change everyday.
We can Pre Check all Product/ orders prior to checkout just contact us please.
If something sells out we can PRE ORDER BACK ORDERS but atm can not offer ETA times due to covid so if interested and can wait we should still be able to order them.
Email :email@example.com or PH 0402550325
Sizing Your Horse
This is a guide only. As well as depending on the height of you horse, alot also depends on what shape they are. (For example a finer 15hh Arab will not be the same size as a thick set 15hh Quarter Horse). The best way to get the perfect size every time is to measure the horse.
This is a guide only. As well as depending on the height of you horse, a lot also depends on what shape they are. (For example a finer 15hh Arab will not be the same size as a thick set 15hh Quarter Horse). The best way to get the perfect size every time is to measure your horse.
Where to measure your horse
To measure your horse it is best to use a piece of string or baling twine, as this is easier to maneuver than a measuring tape. Place one end of the string in the centre of the chest of the horse, and run it around the shoulder and to the end of the rump in line with the top of the tail (making sure you stay at the same height the whole way). If you have a large horse, you may need a second person to hold one end of the string.
A well fitting rug will not move & will not rub your horses shoulder, hip, chest or wither. If this happens, it may indicate that your rug doesn’t fit correctly – remembering that it is near impossible for one rug to fit every shape & size equine.
The front of the rug should be done up with a small gap, snugly, where the gullet meets the chest. The top chest strap should be able to be done up on the first or second hole – if you can only do it up on the third or more hole, you may need a larger size.
A well fitting neckline will sit well up on the neck, clear of the shoulder, does up snugly under the neck, with the shoulder gussets correctly positioned on the point of the shoulder. The rug should sit firmly around the neckline & chest, & be in front of the wither.
The cheek of the horses rump will often stick out past the end of the rug when fitted correctly. The seam where the tail flap attaches to the rug should sit at the top of the tail – if it sits beyond the top of the tail the rug is too big, or above the tail it is too small.
Leg straps should be loose enough to prevent chafing, but not hanging low. We also recommend looping them around or “through” each other.
Leg strap clips should face inwards – towards the horse – so they are less likely to catch on fences ( & don’t get clogged with mud when they roll !! ).
Surcingles/belly bands should be adjusted so they cross in the centre of the belly & allow approx. a hands width between straps & belly.
Most often the rug sizing being used is incorrect, or the horses has features which make them more susceptible to pressure point marks (i.e. high wither, very lean build etc). If a rug is to small you generally see rub marks on the shoulders, if its too big you tend to get rubbing more on the front chest area as the rug slides back over the wither.
When horses are growing out their summer coat, with a thicker winter coat, they may be more susceptible to rub.
Wearing rugs for extended periods (i.e.: over winter) will eventually have an impact on pressure points and bibs are advisable.
Some horses have more sensitive coats and will be fine in lighter rugs (like ripstop cotton ) but may have issues in fly mesh or turnout combos which are heavier. Fine coats and are more susceptible to rubbing and may need a bib under heavier rugs to provide an extra layer of padding.
Gussets & belly bands
There are lots of arguments for and against gussets. A rug with a well positioned gusset will help prevent shoulder rub issues, ensure a better fit and increased comfort for your horse, (especially when rugs have belly surcingles). However we see far too many rugs with a gusset poorly positioned, generally too far forward, or with insufficient depth. These will create a whole new array of fitting issues.
If your rug has belly surcingles, gussets play a very important role in allowing the fabric to mould around the shoulder and allow the rug to tuck up under the belly behind the surcingle straps. Without gussets you are placing a lot more pressure on the chest and shoulders.
A poor fitting rug, due to incorrect sizing for your horse, will accelerate the likely damage to a horse rug.
Horse rugs are usually damaged by-
Having your horse in a rug a size too small, resulting in excessive pressure on chest buckles and the wither area
Having your horse in rug that is too large, resulting in a rug that slips easily on your horse
Having leg straps fitted too loosely, and the horses rug slips, allowing the horse to either step through the leg strap or catch a hoof on the strap - which results in the strap being pulled off.
Loose belly surcingles, which allows the horse to get his legs caught in a strap when running or rolling.
Fencing or sharp objects.
Paddock mates !!
Any of the above issues are exaggerated when your horse rolls or canters.
Please consider your horses environment when rugging especially when using hoods or flyveils. We recommend only using hoods, masks, fly veils or anything that can affect their vision, in a safe environment where they are regularly supervised.
Always follow any directions as advised on labels or packaging.
If a rug is removed when damp or wet, it should be hung up in a dry, well ventilated area.
Rugs should be stored in a dry well ventilated area when not in use.
Occasionally in heavy rain, some moisture penetration may occur in sewn areas of the rug. This is not significant and due to the positioning of the stitching, it will not affect the performance of the rug. Moisture penetration can also happen as a result of the horse standing tail-in or head-in to the weather, particularly when windy. This is normal, and no rug can completely protect from this.
No rug is ever 100% waterproof -this is because rugs contain stitching, webbing & fastenings that cannot always be tape seamed or heat-sealed to prevent water penetration.
Zero Breathability state even for highly breathable rugs: During heavy rain the outer pores of the rugs are covered from water that makes it impossible for air inside of the rug to come outside - at that time the rug is in0 Breathability state, which creates sweat inside of the rug that is sometimes misunderstood as leaking of the rug.
Never used detergent or bleaches as it can damage the waterproof coating
Don’t use a high pressure hose
Synthetic Outdoor – Waterproof Breathable Rugs
Turnout rugs on 600 Denier, 1200 Denier and 1680 Denier Waterproof Breathable outer fabrics.
600D and 1200D are ripstop while 1680 is Oxford weave.
These fabrics have a PU Coating on the inside which is Hydrophilic (water loving) in nature which draws excess sweat and moisture to it. Temperature differences between the air inside and outside the rug/blanket then forces moisture outwards. Breathability, the MVT (Molar Value Transmission), is measured in gms/m2/24 Hours. The higher the MVT value the more breathable the fabric is.
The waterproofness of these fabrics is 3000 mm and Breathability ranges from 3000-8000 MVT.
Lining Lining is mainly Poly/Cotton commonly known as Swiss cotton. It has got good moisture wicking properties.
Filler Fillers used in these outdoor rugs are mainly synthetic which are from 100 GSM to 300 GSM.
TEXGUARD now used on canvas rugs/combos, thus making them more water resistant and durable making them last longer. Texguard is a treatment used to repel water and protect the canvas.
Refers to the material & describes a way of modifying the wrap & weave of a fabric to enable it to contain rips & tears. Usually a man made toughened fabric, this does not mean that it is impossible to rip. It will not stop barbed wire tears, though will limit the damage caused.
Helpful Hints As a Rule,
NOTE DIFFERENT BRANDS MAY OFFER DIFFERENT GRADES OF MATERIALS AND WATERPROOFING AND WARMTH ETC.
No rug is ever 100% Waterproof
It comes down to process of making 100% waterproof can be achieved a few different ways. But it comes down to three things… 1) materials 2) construction techniques 3) cost
100% waterproof Pores that are much too microscopically small for water molecules to pass through, zero pores is ideal.
If there are stitched holes where these rugs are sewn , it isn’t 100% waterproof. Needle holes mean water can get in. It is a hole after all.
Let’s talk about what water-resistant means. It means the fabrics used generally aren’t 100% waterproof. The most common fabrics are nylon and polyester, which are measured in Denier.
Water resistant :water-resistant just won’t be able to handle Very heavy rain heavy storms continuous days of heavy rain,it may get very wet in these situations ,
high water pressure can will cause water to find its way through.
Another good tip is look for tape seamed to help prevent water penetration
Some Canvas Rugs are water-resistant
Unfilled means NO FiLL ,no fill rugs and combos do not have fill in them so therefore will not be a Warm rug as such. these typical rugs/combos are used for stable or day use and can be used for night however we recommend a Filled Rug or Lined wool or fleece rug to help keep horses warm.
I recommend Breathable rugs otherwise your horse may over heat quickly.
When choosing your rug if you are not sure off what you need you are welcome to call me and i'll try to find out which rug will suit your needs,.
We can not exchange if you choose incorrect and refunds are subject to Suppliers return policy ,Remember all brands offer something different.